A Hundred Times Better than God Help the Child
Here’s the thing about Manhattan variants: they’re never as good as Manhattans.
Their names, evocative of hipster-infested pockets of New York City, are annoyingly cute— but they leave me cold. A classic Manhattan is Cary Grant; strong, smooth, and reliable. The wannabes are the Adam Sacklers and Terry Richardsons of the cocktail world; spending time with one might seem like a good idea at an afterhours club in Bed Stuy, but you’re better off ignoring their texts the next day.
But every once in a while, a Manhattan variant will pop up on the radar that seems worth trying. The Song of Solomon is one. (And let’s face it—what else are you going to do with the bottle of 116 proof rye that’s been sitting on your cocktail shelf for a year, slowly evaporating?)
Fair warning: it’s weird. But in the very best way. The Song of Solomon is a one-eyed black Jew who gets on the stage with a cigarette and brings the house down.
A riff on the Bensonhurst, the SoS uses what’s arguably the weirdest of liqueurs: the incomparable Cynar, an Italian Amaro that’s flavored with… artichokes. Any drink with Cynar (by the way, it’s pronounced “chee-NAR,” Italian-style) immediately scores an 8 or above on the weird scale.
On the other hand, the sweetness of the Luxardo balances it out. Maraschino is like bartender’s salt; it just enhances the flavor of everything it comes in contact with. The extra pinch of actual salt in this one, too, which you can’t taste, brings out some of the more subtle vanilla flavors in the rye, and the botanicals in the vermouth and the Cynar.
Try this one stat, says the Candyman. (But be careful—the overproof rye packs a punch.)
Song of Solomon (variation)
1½ oz overproof Rye (I used Willet 116 proof)
½ oz Luxardo Maraschino
½ oz Dry Vermouth (I used Noilly Prat)
½ oz Cynar
a dash of bitters (The original recipe by Dave Kupchinsky at Everleigh in LA calls for celery bitters. I used Peychaud’s and added a pinch of salt.)
Combine all ingredients with ice and stir. Strain into a chilled coupe.
The ingredients: Rye; Maraschino; Dry Vermouth; Cynar; salt; bitters.
The score: 9.5
How weird is it? 9/10.